Four years on, we are proud to present the spiritual successor to the 19.02 Worldtimer – with all the processes and refinements we have developed in between, and a new movement.

Liquidity: an overarching concept

29.01 is the first of the watches in this series, with a new organic form and smoothly flowing lines. There is no bezel, but instead the top crystal merges into the case body with no steps and plays the role of a bezel. Continuing this idea, the dial is also seamless: cities, indices and hands appear to float at different levels over a 24-hour disc with blue to black gradient representing day and night.

We accomplished this by making the entire metallic dial rotate. Which was achieved by mounting it on a peripheral ball bearing track. The blue hues, and slow, subtle change as the hours advance make for a very serene timekeeper, and there is of course our trademark inversion thanks to the use of a sapphire upper dial, as well as sapphire hands. Both are laser-etched and filled with HyCeram X1 for great luminosity and night time visibility.

An unconventional case

The 19-series case was intended to show off the movement sandwiched between two glass boxes; for the all-new 29-series case we have taken this concept even further. It is both physically larger at 40mm, as well as much visually larger due to the lack of bezel and 34mm dial. Short lugs keep the watch comfortably wearable on a wide range of wrist sizes.

A deep sapphire box on the front serves as both crystal and bezel; it is bonded seamlessly to the grade 5 titanium case body. This case body carries the upper portion of the flying blade lugs that are a key feature of our second generation design language and shared with the 27-series and 20-series. Here they are polished and with an interlocking groove that keys into the caseback. This is secured with four Torx screws and also appears seamless from the underside. A polished top and bottom finish to the lugs contrasts with the matte texture of the case sides, with dynamic sculpting continuously blending lug surfaces with case body.

Second generation movement

Schwarz-Etienne’s microrotor automatic has been given a thorough overhaul and is also visually very different to previous versions thanks to an all-new bridge design by MT. It is even more open, airy and transparent, with many unique features that bring it in line with our latest design language. The barrel is fully skeletonized and more open than previous versions for easier determination of state of wind; plates and bridges are DLC coated with contrasting diamond cut anglage; the rotor guard is a whimsical four-level ‘staircase’ with anglage, and the rotor itself is a little larger with a new organic shape for higher winding efficiency. It remains tungsten as this is higher density than 18K gold, but is coloured to match the going train and balance. The microrotor also has a new mounting and ceramic ball bearings for increased winding efficiency.

An all-star cast of partners

As with all flagship pieces, the 29.01 Worldtimer is a great example of a strong group of partners coming together: Manufacture Schwarz-Etienne for movement, and assembly; Jean Rousseau for straps and Studio Koji Sato for finishing pouches. It remains our continuing privilege to work with such a capable team.